Frank Doorhof is Uber

I've followed Amsterdam based photographer Frank Doorhof for several years.  He has amazing skills with the camera especially his control of lighting and his work with models in both the fashion and glamour genre.  He spreads his knowledge through a very entertaining website, his videos and workshops. 

 

Check out Frank's site here.

 

I recently reached out to Frank about the possibility of doing a guest blog post and he agreed.  I decided to do a post on a photoshoot I did with local model, Caroline Nauth using techniques I learned from a mini-workshop at M10 Studio with fashion photographer Bill Jones.

 

I'm honored to have been able to write a post on Frank's site.  And with no further ado, here I am!

 

Guest blog post - "Caroline in Black & White".  Enjoy

 

 

Shannon Barry Photoshoot

Model Shannon Barry

 Did a photoshoot recently with model Shannon Barry.  The goal was to work on some lighting techniques, but also give a photographer friend a chance to work with me on a model shoot.  I put a call-out for a model and Shannon agreed to work with me.  We agreed to her fee and off we went.

As normal I sent a written summary of the theme, lighting technique I wanted to try, and that I would be working with another photographer.  For this shoot we would be doing 3 sets.  The first in the industrial side of M10 Studio.  A second with spot lighting on a couch and lastly a fashion styled shoot against a Savage Seamless Background Paper fashion grey sweep.  All shots were going to be shot in RAW, but processed in black & white.  Since I didn’t hire a MUA for this session I discussed makeup plans with Shannon along with the clothes to bring.  I shared the same information with my co-photographer so he would know the concept.  Good to go.

Because we were shooting in the industrial space I loaded all of my camera gear, light meter, reflectors, stands, extension cords, etc. onto a studio cart.  Key lighting was from an Elinchrom D-Lite 4 with a softbox on a Manfrotto rolling light stand boom. All shots were taken with my Nikon D600 and either my Nikkor AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8 G-ED VRII or Nikkor AF-S 50mm f/1.4G prime

We set up in a very gritty part of the building for the first shoot.  The idea was to create a light “trap” for the shoot.  I aimed and metered the light at a specific location.  I then had Shannon walk into the light and when she got into the right spot I fired off 2-3 images.  I wanted the effect of her walking along a gritty back alley.  Got some cool effects.  I couldn’t resist myself and also had her do a few poses in the same location.  While in the back I showed the other photographer what I was doing and let him shoot an equal number of photos.

After about 45 minutes we went back to the studio.  I had originally planned to use a beauty dish on an Elinchrom D-Lite 4 set at the lowest power to give a spotlight effect on Shannon while she was sitting on the couch / on the floor leaning against the couch.  I was going to shoot the images with the studio light off.  This didn’t work.  The light was too diffused so I didn’t get the desired spotlight effect.  No dramas, I switched to a simple Nikon SB-600 speedlight with a HonlPhoto ¼” Speed Grid and a second Nikon SB-600 set at low power hand held aimed in various locations.  Both speedlights were triggered with my Elinchrom EL-Skyports.  This worked great.  I put the gridded speedlight on a boom and moved it around as needed.

I had Shannon switch into black tee, black tights and long black boots along with dark sunglasses.  A cool vibe.  Smoky club meets Terminator. 

Finally, I switched Shannon over to a Fashion Grey sweep and we did directed and free formed posing.  This was done with my Elinchrom D-Lite 4 mounted in an Elinchrom beauty dish.  Taking tips I picked up a few weeks ago I used a number of sheets of black foam core mounted on lightstands to prevent light bouncing back onto Shannon.  I wanted to maximize the lighting contrast.  I light this lighting setup and I think we got solid results.  

During the studio part of the shoot ½ of the time was spent showing my co-photographer how I was shooting, how I was setting my camera settings, how a light meter worked, how to position lighting, etc.  It was fun to talk through what I normally just do in my head from experience.  Overall, a fun shoot with an excellent model.

Tips for my next shoot:

• If you are doing a lighting “trap” make a mark someplace on the ground to watch.  When the subject gets to the mark that’s when you take your photos.  I had a few where I shot too early or too late…thus the value of burst mode,

• Use manual focus set at the “trap” spot.  Because the location was fairly dark – as I wanted – the auto-focus lagged even though I shot with top notch glass.  At the wider aperture that meant I had a few out of focus shots.  Shift in manual and focus on a prearranged location.  Problem solved,

• Play with your lighting.  When I did the couch shots and for the first 15 minutes I thought I wouldn’t be able to get the look I wanted with the Elinchrom even at the lowest power.  I thought, “might as well try a speedlight” and this worked great.  Play with your lighting.

• If you are shooting with studio strobes out of studio and without portable rechargeable batteries make sure you know where the plugs are in advance.  I did this and was glad I did.  Some of the plugs in the industrial space were not hot.  I avoided spending lots of time finding juice.

• If you are shooting with someone else walk them through everything.  This was half the fun.

Model Shoot at M10 Studio - Katie Willock

Model - Katie Willock, MUA - Sasha Star

Had a nice time photographing new model Katie Willock today at M10 Studio.  Got a chance to work with my favorite MUA, Sasha Star for the shoot.  We did 3 different chothing changes, and 3 different backgrounds.  A TV Grey seamless sweep, a black backdrop mounted on a C-Stand, and a group of fashion magazine photos taped to the studio wall.  Lighting consisted of a single Elinchrom D-Lite 4 on each setup with different modifiers and aperture settings.  Metered most shots to f/8 to f/11. 

Stay tuned for a more detailed post!

Caroline & Emmy

Had a fun shoot with local models Caroline Nauth and Emmy Lindgren this weekend at M10 Studio.  Also, had a chance to meet and chat with new model Katie Willock.   Katie had expressed an interest in watching Caroline & Emmy work and to see how I handle a typical model shoot.  We even got a chance to take a few photos while Caroline & Emmy were getting ready.

As always both Caroline & Emmy were great.  Both have model skills.  We did the theme that I had tested last weekend with model Shannon Barry.  I'll post a more detailed summary in the next week.

Teaser Alert - Guest Blog

Don't ask, don't get.  I've been following Netherlands based fashion photographer Frank Doorhof for some time.  He burst on the scene about 3 years ago in the model / fashion scene.  Trust me people, this is a photographer with skills.  He's active in fashion photography, social media, workshops, podcasts & is now one of Scott Kelby's minions.

This week I emailed him asked if I could write a guest blog post on his very active website StudioFD.  I sent him a sample of my writing, and a link to my blog.  Guess what - he followed up and said "bring it on".  I sent him a draft post this week and tonight he said lets do it.

So tonight I sent him the final post along with images. Fingers crossed it will get posted and then I'll be able to spread some Indianapolis model photography style & techniques to Europe!!

Bill Jones Fashion Style

Kristen, Bill & Tiffany all working hard

I’ve followed the photography of Bill Jones for about a year.  Working primarily out of Los Angeles Bill focuses on fashion / model photography which is a genre I’ve been working on.  From his website: “A Midwest native, Bill now spends most of his time commuting between New York, Miami, and Los Angeles working with some of the top fashion models in the country”.

Recently, I had an opportunity to watch Bill work and be his photo-gofer.  It was a great learning experience.  I’ve followed him on Facebook and because of this connection I think he knew I had a studio along with 2 local photographers.  He reached out to me asking if he could do a session with a local model in the studio.  In consideration he would let me treat the shoot like a mini workshop.  I was happy to let him use the studio to watch him work and pull as much knowledge out of him as possible.

The time and date was arranged.  On the date Bill and the local model, Kristen Renee Grable, who had been interested in working with Bill arrived.  Bill also invited local MUA / hair stylist, Tiffany Holmes.  Bill and I agreed the only thing I needed to provide was the studio, light stands, set up a fashion grey seamless and he would bring the rest.  

Touch-up Time

Bill’s kit for this shoot was straight forward.  A one light setup.  A Paul C. Buff Alien Bee B1600 along with a Paul C. Buff 22-inch High Output White Beauty Dish Reflector.  He brought a backup Alien Bee B800, but didn’t need it. On the beauty dish Bill didn’t use the internal direct-light blocker but only the external diffuser sock.  The Alien Bee was mounted on a Manfrotto boom arm which was mounted on a Paul C Buff – 13” Air-Cushioned Heavy Duty Light Stand, TS13AC.  This was counter-balanced with one of our lightstand weights and several sandbags.  The Alien Bee was triggered using one of my Elinchrom EL Skyport triggers and receivers.  A solid setup. 

Here is one of Bill’s techniques I’ve used a couple of times since.  He closely controls the light bouncing back on the model with black foam core flags of different sizes clipped to light stands and laying on the floor.  He puts these flags in different locations around the model based on the setting and light to control.  Bill set the beauty dish 72” (from the bottom of the dish) with the light aimed so it brushed across Kristen’s belly button (she’s at least 5’11 in heals) and into the black foam core flag.  Interesting – I would have never set the lighting up this way. 

Kristen was constantly moving

Bill set his camera and metered Kristen using a Sekonic L-358 for f/11 through f/13.  He indicated for this type of shoot he doesn’t go wider than f/8.  Speed set at 1/125 to 1/160.  I normally shoot at f/8 as the smallest aperture.  I’ve never done model photography at f/11.  Another tip. 

While we were setting up Tiffany was working her magic on Kristen.  Before they went to work Bill was very specific on the type of makeup effect he wanted and how he wanted it applied.  Same with the hair.  Bill talked this over with Tiffany and Kristen early.  Also, when the makeup was applied Bill checked Kristen closely; taking a sample shot and having Tiffany touch up a few areas he needed work on.  Another tip I’ve used a couple of times since.  The shoot was already worth it and the photography hadn’t even started.  When we were set up and waiting for Kristen & Tiffany to finish Bill and I talked for about 30 minutes about all things photography, managing your business, working with agencies, working with models, etc., etc.  I was taking copious notes.

When Kristen was ready Bill got to work. We planned 4 sets with 4 different clothes changes.  One with a sheer shirt / shorts, one with a black leather pants / jacket, a black one piece swimsuit, and finally a long white t-shirt.  In each set Bill asked Kristen to move constantly.  Almost dancing.  Moving shoulders, body, and hair dramatically.  Bill did the sessions standing, sitting and laying down. While all of this was going on he would stop and show me and Tiffany the images he was capturing, zooming in constantly.  He would show Kristen what he was capturing and talk her through moves / poses / expressions he needed.  Tiffany stood behind us the entire shoot and stepped in when needed to fix make-up and hair.  This went on for all 4 sets.  Bill was constantly talking to model Kristen.  It was great to watch, and of course that sound you heard was my pen on notebook taking notes.  

Laying down on the job

Laying down on the job part deux

Bill is a Canon shooter and uses the heavy artillery of DSLRs, the 1D.  Throughout he used a 50mm lens.  A perfect setup for this type of shoot.  To zoom Bill simply used his body.  Another trick he used was shooting in RAW, but he set his picture control to monochrome so he could control the full dynamic range and shadows.  Smart.

I can tell you the images I saw were AMAZING.  Not sure he will post or share any of the final images, but wow.  Kristen is tall, fluid, talented and a good looking model.  Tiffany is a top notch MUA/Stylist, and Bill, well in my opinion Bill has extreme skills.  He’s not only a top notch photographer, but a good teacher.

I learned a great deal in the 4-5 hours I got to work with Bill and would love to do it again.  Hmmm, my job will be taking me to Los Angeles regularly…maybe!

Here are a few tips I picked up during the shoot:

·         In studio – aperture at f/8 to f/13

·         Use a 50mm lens on a full frame camera

·         Photos should be 9”x12” crop for agency images

·         Crop knee to head

·     Have the model constantly moving – have the model walk to and away from you while on location.

·        Use a black background for light skinned models

·        For fashion shoots the model should not look at the camera

·         Models should be 5’8” or taller for agencies

·         Don’t light the background for shoots like this

·    Don’t wear jewelry if it’s a fashion shoot – unless of course the shoot is for the jewelry company

·        And no matter how good we get as a photographer it’s always good to practice and work with other photographers – watch their style and learn!!